Level of difficulty 5 paddles |  Gastronomy 2 pitchers |  Length 57 km |  Time 11 – 13 hours

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Adventurous weir transfers and easy whitewater paired with partly deserted river sections - the Mur River between Graz and the Slovenian border has all this and so much more to offer. With enough time and perseverance, you can paddle yourself away from daily stressors while challanging personal limits.

General information

• GuestCard South Styria
• Styria Wikipedia
• South Styria tourist information
• Climate
• Wind, waves, weather

Navigation rules

Only south of Graz (up to the Gössendorf power station) you can expect water sports enthusiasts and a few bathers around the Auwiesen recreational area. Always give priority!

There are also fishermen along the banks along the entire route, so always make sure not to paddle into a fishing line.

It is best not to enter reed areas and other resting areas for animals.

Dangers and risks

Although the Mur River. was straightened a long time ago and on this river section south of the state capital of Graz it has lost a lot of its naturalness, it makes sense that there are quite a few sources of danger lurking on almost 60 km of river action. This is why this mammoth tour as a whole is only suitable for experienced river paddlers, although many quiet sections of the river away from the weirs pose no challenge, even for beginners.

The eight weirs are tough and usually there are no optimal conditions to get out of the water or back into the water. If boarding is not made easy by stairs, you will have to find a suitable spot yourself. The greater challenge, however, is the re-entry below the power plants, because very often the only way to get to the water is over rocks, scree or sloping banks. Patience, coordination and foresight are extremely important here.

The highlight in this regard is definitely the power plant Mellach, which can only be exited through thickets and has to be portaged 500 to 1500 meters (depending on preference). Here even the short version is nerve-wracking, because you then have to walk/paddle through a badly laid, shallow stream to the water. Especially at the end you have to carefully climb down the stone steps with the SUP in your hand and at the same time withstand the torrent of water from behind - not for the faint of heart. For this reason alone, it is a must to wear stable and non-slip neoprene shoes or other footwear.

Due to the length of the tour, it is also advisable to take a spare fin and a spare paddle with you, because losing them on flowing water can lead to the discontinuance of the tour or even more serious consequences.

Of course, a number of bridges and footbridges lead over the Mur, the pillars of which should be avoided on a large scale, but the current usually shows the right way around anyway. After the weir near Lebring, motor boats could make their rounds. Better to paddle along the right bank, because the pier is on the left after the little bridge.

From Gralla onwards time and again trees and branches hang over the river from the shore. Be careful if you want to paddle along the shore for shade or currents.

From 500 m before the Obervogau power plant the left river bank is shallow and muddy. If you paddle too far to the left, your fin could get stuck or cross the fishing lines. From here to Spielfeld more and more fishermen line the shore. So it doesn't hurt to paddle more in the middle.

700 m after leaving the A9 motorway bridge at Spielfeld behind you, you glide towards a flat bed glide, which is unlikely to be manageable. These are the remains of the dilapidated Oberschwarza weir. Hard-nosed paddlers could try to paddle it if the water level was high enough. On the other hand, you can take the right side arm and carry the SUP over the stone wall to get back on under the sole slide. It is not clear from the satellite images whether the side arm is passable throughout and would still have to be tested on site. If so, paddling it would also mean bypassing whitewater level 1-2 for about three kilometers if you prefer to take it easy.

From the aforesaid flat bed glide to the exit in Mureck, whitewater and small riffles are to be expected again and again, but no problem for experienced paddlers. Here it is important to decide in a flash whether to kneel or just shift your weight forward to protect the fins.

Directions

By car you get from the center of Graz the easiest way to get to the Murkraftwerk Graz is via Wielandgasse Street. On the way south, Wielandgasse Street first becomes Schönaugasse street and then Kasernstraße – just follow the road south straight ahead. At the pharmacy (Apotheke am Grünanger) simply turn right into Eduard-Keil-Gasse and from there continue to the GDG Sports Center (mini golf and tennis). There are usually enough available car parking spaces free of charge here.

Alternatively you can take any number 34 bus from Jakominiplatz in the direction of Thondorf, get off at the Andersengasse stop and from there go straight ahead to the GDG Sportcenter where you turn left in the direction of the power plant. After the landscaped park between the bike path and the Mur, you get to the Olympiawiese Meadow with the starting point of this tour.

Parking

There are enough free parking spaces in the area of the GDG Sports Center in Pichlergasse. Please only occupy the unmarked parking lots and avoid those directly at the housing estates - private property!

Swimming

In summer, the Mur is pleasantly warm and you can get into the water from many places in the dammed-up areas. However, swimming and bathing is prohibited in the areas around of the power plants.

In addition, Styria offers a lot of great bathing opportunities in the vicinity of this tour and away from the Styrian main river.

Tour

From Graz along the Mur to Mureck.

Length

57 km

Time

11 – 13 hours

Start and landing

Start at the Olympiawiese Meadow under the Graz power plant.

Land about 100 m before the Ship Mill in Mureck.

SUP rental

Bootsverleih Stadtstrand Graz
Marina in Liebenau
Murpromenade Graz-Süd, 8020 Graz
Phone +43 (0)677 63 95 50 96

Stand Up Paddling am Sulmsee
Seggauberg 184, 8430 Seggauberg
Phone +43 (0)664 944 14 72

South Styrian river paddling with extra miles

The longest river in Styria is particularly varied in its Upper Styrian reaches and almost entirely navigable. The almost sixty kilometers from Graz to the Slovenian border, on the other hand, are divided into manageable stages by eight power plants. Despite the often slow-moving water, they pose a challenge of their own. This is due to the high effort required in the low current and on the other hand to the regular portaging of the weirs . Even if interactive satellite images are helpful during tour preparation, you will always experience surprises and moments of excitement along this route.

Graz power plant

I experience the first moment of joy just after 7 a.m. when I put my board in the water under a cloudless sky and in the pleasantly cool morning air. At the Olympiawiese under the barrage in Graz Liebenau you can paddle straight into the day with a little momentum and head straight towards the local recreation area Auwiesen with its artificial side arm of the river.

I enjoy the first rays of sunshine over the treetops and rooftops and look ahead, where the Gössendorf barrage is expected in about five kilometers.

Gössendorf barrage

Up to this point I have already paddled several kilometers in standing water and in order to go around the power plant I climb the stairs 220 m to the right in front of the weir 380 m further south. I take the steep stairs under the power station back into the water and take the momentum towards the narrow and wooded oxbow lakes, which branch off on both sides of the main river and run parallel to it.

A long island builds up in front of me in the middle of the river and gives me two options: if I paddle to the right it's a bit more comfortable and after about 250 m I will be carried back into the main river over shallow water. The passage on the left guarantees me more momentum and river feeling and I avoid the shallow water at the end of the right oxbow lake. So I paddle around the island on the left and enjoy the pleasant current.

Immediately after the island you could paddle left and right into other side arms and let your soul dangle a little. I prefer to enjoy the brisk river speed, because I know that the water will soon slow down considerably and that I'll have to paddle harder all the rest of the way to Kalsdorf anyway.

Kalsdorf barrage

Also in Kalsdorf you can leave the water 240 m in front of the power plant on a small staircase on the right and after 400 m climb the next staircase under the weir back down to the water. The entrance is steep, but thanks to the stairs it is not dangerous and from here I paddle into a lonely landscape, which is accessible via a cycle path, but is still deserted. The water quickly slows down and after a few gentle bends in the river, I can already see the chimneys of the district heating plant in Mellach. While I am listening carefully to the chirping of the birds and pulling hard on the paddle, I have no idea that I am about to have a little brain teaser.

Mellach barrage

First of all, you have the choice of going ashore on the right hand side over the stone wall, or directly by the weir over the somewhat overgrown bank (according to the satellite image, an exit on the left does not seem to make much sense). In both cases you will come to a field path that leads to the power plant, but ends in front of its fence or gate.

On the right there are bushes and a small, low-lying stream in the direction of the Mur, on the left the sealed-off power plant site. The entire facility is relatively extensive and has its own network of paths - even down to the river. Climbing over the fence would be possible and probably not that difficult, and would enable an optimal re-entry under the dam. However, this is too illegal and undemanding for me.

Unfortunately, the stream initially leads into two pipelines and cannot be navigated down to the Mur. It is just as dubious that there is a corn field on the opposite side of the stream, which is almost impossible to cross in summer.

Probably the only sensible way to get around the power plant here is to go down to the stream and up the other side (thicket, bushes, earthy and steep bank) - at a very specific point:

Approximately at the level of the dam wall, two large pipelines lead away to the right (west) and that's exactly where you should cross the creek, because under the pipelines there is a wide undeveloped route, along which you can bypass the corn field. You follow the pipes for about a hundred meters to the bike path (Kraftwerkstraße), but you have to reckon with some nettles on your calves along the way, which shouldn't be a problem for outdoor junkies.

You can climb up the bike path to the left (south) for 550 m, bypassing the power plant site. At the fork in the path, there is the opportunity to paddle another, larger and easily accessible stream in the direction of the Mur. The alternative would just be further out on the main road B 67 and then get back into the river much further down via the next bike bath (R2 Murradweg). This detour would be about a kilometer long, the creek leads into the Mur after only 600 m.

So I take the stream and let myself be carried under the canopy of leaves to the Mur, but I realize right away that this won't be a walk in the park either. Over the entire length I find bloated branches, trees and tree trunks lying across the water. In addition, the water moves down to the river in countless low rock steps and, to make matters worse, in many places it is so shallow that I have to pull my board by hand.

It probably makes the most sense to remove the fins in advance and only attach them to the SUP again when you get to the river. Paddling straight ahead is not possible here anyway and you could at least save yourself from getting off the board a number of times.

The inconspicuous stream is very nerve-wracking and time-consuming to cover, not least because of the horseflies and the countless carrying processes. In the end, however, you really have to earn the entrance to the Mur, because on its last few meters the stream falls steeply into the river and here you have to carry everything down carefully and resist the pull of the water.

It is best to approach this challenge with at least two people, because every step has to be spot on and you can use any help here.

But after this power plant bypass, it's a quite easy going ride again and you pass the village of Wildon, whose parish church can be seen well from the water. From Wildon on paddlers enter South Styria, highly seductive, both in terms of landscape and cuisine. Here wine culture and customs are lived like nowhere else in Austria.

The cycle path is now also well frequented and as a paddler you quickly become an eye-catcher for all road users on land. After a few long turns, you finally get to the Lebring power plant.

Lebring barrage

Here you can paddle stress-free to the right bank directly in front of the dam and then walk down to the main road. At the road turn left and walk past the local gas station and the municipal office and after about 400 m turn left into Florianistrasse Street. At the bottom of the playground there is a small parking lot. From here you can easily get down to the water and set sail again carefree.

The next kilometers towards Gralla run almost without current and you paddle straight through a wooded area. If motor boats make their rounds here, caution is advised and you should paddle close to the shore. Fortunately, however, I am slowly being overtaken, so that the waves are kept within limits.

Gralla barrage

Above the power plant forms the Gralla reservoir with a small floodplain from and opposite - on the left bank - you will find enough flat landings. This is where fishermen can position their rods, so always keep an eye out for the lines. The portage is easy and short here by simply following the dirt road to the left around the power plant and going back down to the shore via the asphalt parking lot under the dam wall. There are boulders that have been piled up here, sloping down to the water, but these bank structures can be conquered with ease.

Most of the next river stage goes through a lonely green area and by now I'm starting to notice clear signs of exhaustion, because half of the tour has already been completed and there is little variety on this section, which runs quite straight. Going straight ahead can also be mentally tiring, especially since the water is very slowly too.

Gabersdorf barrage

In return the Gabersdorf barrage offers a pleasant landing on the right side, where there is a small embankment directly in front of the weir up to the bike path. I use the shade under the trees and the bench for a short break before I walk along the cycle path (West bank of the Mur) to the stream. At its mouth into the Mur you can carefully climb down over the rocks to reach the water. Here, too, it is advantageous to act in pairs, because the stones are sometimes a bit unstable or the subsoil can crumble. It is best to use the paddle handle to feel where you want to climb.

From now on, the flow rate of the Mur finally increases and stays the same for longer. I paddle under the A9 motorway, which leads to Slovenia, and enjoy the lightness on my SUP, because the river carries me comfortably past the small town called Leibnitz which you can neither see nor guess from the water. Tree trunks keep appearing on the shore and I enjoy paddling in the shade under the trees to the next barrage.

Obervogau barrage

The approach to the Obervogau power plant turns out to be particularly idyllic, since the left river bank from 500 m in front of the weir it is very loamy and shallow, which can also be clearly seen on the satellite image. If you don't stay at least twenty meters from the shore, you could get stuck in the clay soil. Otherwise you glide over the water, which is quite transparent here, past a meadow landscape and look for a flat exit in the vicinity of the fishing hut on wooden posts to the left in front of the weir.

I quickly reach the bike path via the field path and find a small snack station about 150 m further on under the power plant. Especially along the second half of this tour you will always find good places to stop for refreshments by the shore.

The resting cyclists look at me in amazement and are probably wondering where I come from. I get into conversation and the innkeeper at Murradeweg Hütte 1 shows me a great way to the water not far from the rest area.

I simply follow the path to the barrier and then find a staircase carved into the rocks on the right between the trees. It leads to a small brick water access, which leads diagonally to the river. From the opposite side the Sulm joins the Mur and in the eddy you can easily get on your SUP and then throw yourself into the water. Here, too, the subtle current remains and after a few turns I can already see the Ehrenhausen Palace right above me.

Now I'm in the midst of the southern Styrian wine region and when I cross the bridge towards Ehrenhausen my heart lights up. How many times have I passed it in my car on the way to Slovenia and stared longingly at the river. Every time I said to my girlfriend that I wanted to paddle down here. And now the time has actually come. Doing this tour was a small dream come true and I only really become aware of it down here in the Styrian wine region.

I stay on the right bank and paddle in the shade for the very last weir transfer of the day.

Spielfeld barrage

Approaching the power plant in located in Spielfeld more and more fishing rods are sticking out of the bushes, I paddle towards the middle and finally have to swing to the left bank anyway. I find enough flat exits between the fishermen and drag my equipment down to the dirt road one last time where I pass a snack bar called Radl Hittn. I follow the lonely path and discover two rabbits in front of me. Only when I get within a few meters of them do they hop away and give me the way to the underside of the dam.

To do this, you simply have to walk across the meadow at the end of the field path until you are at the end of the hill. From there, another fairly steep and smooth bank structure leads over concreted-in boulders. From here I paddle straight to the middle of the river in order to get into the strongest current and let myself be pushed towards Spielfeld. After I pass the A9 motorway a second time (2nd bridge after portaging at Spielfeld), the most exciting part of my trip in terms of river paddling begins, because in about 700 m a bottom slide awaits me at the Slovenian border and then repeatedly passages with easy whitewater and river speeds between 4 to 8 km/h.

The sole slide, the remains of a former weir, can easily be bypassed by re-entering the river via the stone bed to its right at the bottom. Alternatively, there would be a side arm that runs three kilometers through Slovenian territory, but it is unclear how well this it navigable throughout. If the water level is high enough, die-hards could try to paddle on or around the slide on the far left, but the site would have to be inspected in advance because of its stones and shoals. Before that, there is definitely no recommendation for this endeavor!

From here it is still ten kilometers to the planned exit in Mureck and these definitely complete the tour. Finally you can fully enjoy waves and currents and get your money's worth with whitewater class I-II.

Some places form shallow ripples, but these can easily be bypassed via small side arms. You may be out and about in deserted areas a lot, but there are always small bays where sun worshipers sunbathe.

I paddle past a curious rarity: the Mur ferry in Weitensfeld is now unfortunately the last intact roller ferry on the river and takes cyclists and walkers from bank to bank every day. And even for free! But you should have your passport with you, because on the Austrian side it can happen that the military police stop by randomly and check the travel documents.

Suddenly and far too quickly I see the Ship Mill Mureck in front of me and let out an enthusiastic and at the same time relieved 'Yeah!'.

About a hundred meters before the mill I find the optimal landing between the trees, where you can walk straight up over a wooden bridge to a paved path. Here you can choose between the following options for the return journey: either a car is waiting in front of the public bath in Mureck for pickup, or you can walk to the local bus station (10 min) or train station (20 min). You find train connections in all directions on Omio and on RailEurope.

Life blesses me with the first option and my sweetheart is already waiting for me with a cool refreshment in her hands. What a brilliant day that was - full of surprises, small frustrations, exhaustion and motivation, sun and pure joie de vivre. Even if you're happy to leave the river behind for the moment, you soon get the call to do it all over again.